Happy New Year From London

After a lovely dinner at the Globe Theatre, we boarded a river boat and sailed the Thames through town until we anchored just to the south of the London Eye.

I'll post more tomorrow!  Happy New Year Everybody!

Aside From Being in Britain, I'm Not Sure Why They Call It The British Museum

Word/Phrase of the Day:  Sticky Toffee Pudding.  This dessert is actually a steamed cake, rather than a pudding.  It's a warm, really dense moist cake covered in toffee sauce and served with ice cream or custard.  Wells Brewery makes a Sticky Toffee Pudding Ale that is way sweeter than a beer should be and really gives this lovely dessert a bad name...though not as bad as Spotted Dick.

Early this morning we were heading to the Tube station when I noticed a band gathering near the Marble Arch.  They looked a little familiar to me so I quickly snapped a picture:

Focus in on the right hand side...see the longhorn of the back of that jacket?  Yep.  The University of Texas Alumni band is playing at the London New Year's Day Parade!

Today was British Museum Day.  As the English comedian, John Oliver, points out, "the whole of the British Museum should be declared an active crime scene.  There should be yellow caution tape around the entire thing...or maybe a chalk outline."  Why, you ask?  Because throughout the history of the British Empire, envoys have stolen shit from all over the world and brought it back to the mothership giving a big ol' neener neener to those countries now bereft of their treasures.  Some of those countries still see it that way, but many are just as happy not to have to insure or dust all that stuff.

So, they're having a special exhibit on Germany that we got early tickets to, so we had to be there by 10am.  The experts also recommend you get there early...so you're only there with about a million people rather than the entire planet.  The museum itself is impressive:

And here's the inside...the ceiling of the Great Court

This was the first item in the Germany installation:  The People's Car!

Gotta love it.

The exhibit was very cool and included items like Napoleon's Waterloo hat, a copy of the Gutenberg Bible, and a gilt-copper and steel ship that was designed to trundle along a grand table to announce a banquet. It has sailors wielding hammers to strike the hours and quarters on bells in the crows nests. It also shows the time on a dial at the bottom of the main mast. Music is played on a small regal organ and a drum skin stretched over the base of the hull. The Electors of the Holy Roman Empire, led by heralds, process before their Emperor seated on a throne beneath the main mast. As a grand finale, it fires its cannons to produce a wonder of noise and smoke to entertain the guests.  It didn't do all of that today, but we weren't having dinner.

These and about 600 other artifacts from German History made for a wonderful exhibit.  One of the most chilling pieces was a replica of the Buchenwald gate - the entrance to the Buchenwald concentration camp.  Above it the words: "Jedem das Seine" a German proverb meaning "to each his own" or "to each what he deserves."   <Shiver>

Beyond the special exhibit awaited more than eight million items filling about a million square feet/two miles of exhibit space.  Yeah, we just couldn't see all of it.  But we did hit the highlights:  

The Rosetta Stone:

Tons of people were clamoring about it and Joe said, "They probably all think this is just some sort of language program."  Um...yeah, that's exactly what it is.

Next we saw the Assyrian gateway figures:

I know what you're thinking (aside from "What is the capital of Assyria?")...yes, these things are enormous!  These are two of them that, at one time about 3,000 years ago, stood guard for the Assyrian kings.

They stand about two stories high.

A tomb from ancient Turkey,

a boatload of pieces from the Parthenon

And a statue from Easter Island

So, yeah...aside from in being located in Britain, there's just not that much British stuff in it...technically.

After we left the museum, we headed to a pub for lunch and a pint and then made our way to Baker's Street for the Sherlock Holmes thing, the Beatles Store and the Rock and Roll Store.

There was a line to stand under this address next to a bobby while donning a deerstalker (the kind of hat worn by Mr. Holmes).  Not only did we not want to stand in line, but I certainly didn't want to put on that hat that about 10,000 others had.  Ick.

As we made our way back to the hotel, the sun was setting over Hyde Park...so pretty!

Tomorrow's New Year's Eve.  We're going to sleep in, go see the changing of the guard, and generally take it easy for the day.  We have tickets for dinner at the Globe Theatre and a Thames River cruise to watch the fireworks.  Not sure when I'll get to post, so Happy New Year's everyone!

New Feature and Beers We Drank On Monday

I'd like to introduce a new feature (pronounced fee-cha): Word/Phrase of the Day.  Today's phrase is bubble and squeak.  Now, one would think you were referring to the names of your poodle and your cat (I'm talking to you, Muffin), but noooo, it is a potato or leftover veggie dish.  So named for the sounds it makes while frying.  You take leftover roast vegetables and chop them up (maybe add some cold leftover meat), then fry it up for dinner (or a snack).  Sadly we didn't get to try it (they were out), but at least we know what is now.

Today's adventure started on a clear and sunny note...so much sunshine, we decided that it would be a great day to go to the Eye.  Erected for the millennium, the Eye has become an iconic, and I'm certain money-making fixture in the London skyline.  We bought fast track tickets because we have better things to do than wait in line and because our concierge recommended it.  Totally worth it.

We arrived at the park and were on the "capsule" within 20 minutes.  A once-around tour takes 30 minutes.

Gorgeous views!  There was only one thing that really disappointed me..and it wasn't even any of my business.  There was a girl in our capsule who was about 13 years old.  She spent the entire (and I do mean entire) 30 minutes looking at her phone.  I'm sure she was enthralled with the drama of Brittany and Macon breaking up, and later when she's asked what she saw she'll say "Oh, my mom has the pictures," but, dammit, how can she be so lost on life?  On what's going on around her?  I was sad.  I was truly disappointed.  I was glad I never had kids.  It's likely she was torturing her parents for bringing her on this lousy trip, but the worse was THEY didn't seem to care that she couldn't care less.  Yeah, it made me sad.  And a little angry...that I didn't have the authority to grab her by her turned up nose and explain in a reasonably calm and succinct manner that she was a stupid ingrate.  Deep breath.  Anyway...

Once off the Eye, we decided that since we were in the neighborhood of the Abbey, we should go see it since we missed it on Saturday.  However, once we got across the Westminster Bridge, it was obvious that we weren't going to get in there today.  The line was impossible!  Bloody tourists!  Everywhere!  Bugger!  Plan is to go back early on Wednesday.  

Instead, we set off to find a pub.  London is full of tiny back alleys they fondly call streets, so naturally we got a little turned around.  I approached a bobby (policeman) and asked where we might find a pub called the Two Chairman.  While he'd never heard of the pub (we invited him to go with us), he certainly knew the address...and gave us quick shortcut directions.  Brilliant!  We had a lovely lunch with a couple of really nice beers, and, after the quick rest/recovery, set off for Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery.

In Denver, we have a big blue bear that peers into our convention center.  Here they have a blue cock (well, chicken) out front of the National Gallery.  I think the inadvertent "Wide Load" sign is appropriate.  Sodding British humor!

The National Gallery is huge and full of amazing work: Renoir, Degas, Monet, Michelangelo, Gauguin, van Gogh, Rembrandt, and a ton of others.  And of all of them, this one stuck out for only one reason: Sammys, I'm talking to you...

It was close to 5pm and getting cold outside when we finally got out of the labyrinth that is the Gallery, so instead of facing rush hour, we stepped into a pub in nearby Piccadilly Circus, The Admiralty.  Yay, us!  And yay Fuller's beer!  Once full of food and beer, and ready to get back to the hotel, we hopped the tube back to Marble Arch and our waiting bed.

Tomorrow, we think it will be the British Museum and Abbey Road.  It's so true...London is 10 pounds of shit in a five pound bag!

My Apologies, And Moving On

My apologies.  In yesterday's post, I failed to use any (or all) of the following: Bollocks, Bugger, Sodding, Bloody, Crikey!, Blimey! or Cor (God!).  I'm sorry, and I promise to do better.

Moving on...

Today, we hit the bloody Tower of London and the sodding Tower Bridge.

We actually got up early today and got to the Tower of London just after it opened - almost no lines.  A very handsome Beefeater gave us the hint to "duck round the corner for a better line" and we were off.  First stop was the Crown Jewels.  Oh. My. God.  Crikey!  There's a diamond in one of the scepters that's 530+ carats.  I am not kidding.  

That's about the size of an egg.  I am not kidding.

And, bugger, if there isn't another in one of Elizabeth's crowns that's over 105 carats.

See it there in the front?  That's about the size of silver dollar.  Cor, blimey!

And then there's a sapphire.  It's about the size of a half dollar.

It's there in front.  Holy Crap!

And, of course, they are all beautifully displayed and polished to sparkling perfection.  Unbelievable.  There was also a gold punch bowl from the coronation banquet dinnerware that was the size of a baptismal font...the ladle was as big as a saucepot.  

All in all it's an amazing collection absolutely goosebump-inducing.

After the jewels, we went over to the Armory...all the past kings' armor (and their horse's armor).  Wow!

A stunning display...and more than a little scary!

There were cannons, spears, swords, mace, pikes and other torture devices...you name it...hence, the scary.  They were selling plastic broadswords in the gift shop.  We totally wanted to get brother-in-law a suit of armor, but they don't make 'em in his height-size...and I don't think he'd look very good in capri-pants armor.  Bollocks!

After we escaped the blade and the block, we headed for the Hung, Drawn & Quartered Pub for lunch and a pint.  Perfect!

Joe had sausages, and I had crispy fish...and this lovely stout.  Yum!!

On to the Tower Bridge.  It's one of the most iconic bridges in the world and full of innovation (at least it was back in the late 1800s).  The views were great!  Especially from the glass floor high above it...

yeah, those are people down there

and a van below me...way, way, way below me.

It's lovely at night:

Back to the hotel to freshen up a bit and then off to a local pub for a delicious dinner, including Joe's Sticky Toffee Pudding for dessert.  

Tomorrow?  Changing of the Guards, the Abbey and maybe the Eye.  

It's A Wild, Wild Day

OMG did we need some sleep!  Even with the sun beaming (well, weakly) through our curtains, we didn't crack an eye until 9:30.  So much for yesterday's plan or getting an early start.

By the time we got out the door, it was after 11am...we missed breakfast.  We missed the changing of the guard.  (Not to worry, we have several more days on which they perform the ceremony.  We'll probably go the 29th or the 31st.)  We missed some other spots that the experts advise you to take advantage of the early morning hours.  Sigh.

We decided to take the tube over to Westminster and check out the Abbey, Parliament, and the Churchill War Rooms Museum.

With yesterday's foray, we were confident - no, we were fearless! - that we could maneuver through the city with ease.  We hopped on Central Line with the intent of taking eastbound Marble Arch to Oxford Circus, and then south on Victoria Line to Victoria and finally District Line to Westminster.  "We apologize for the inconvenience, but Central Line reports a disabled train at Leytonstone.  This train will no longer have eastbound service until the train can be depoted."  Hmmm.

After looking at the map, Joe has an even better plan.  "Let's go westbound to Notting Hill Gate then pick up the Circle Line south...it goes right to Westminster."  Perfect.

We get on westbound Central Line and begin heading to Notting Hill.  "We apologize, there is no District or Circle Line service from Notting Hill this morning."  Sorry, what?  I mean, "What the fuck?"

Our next opportunity to switch lines is at White City...three more stops.  There, we can catch Circle Line to take us back east to Westminster.  At White City we come to a complete stop.  "We apologize, but we just like fucking with your plans...there will be no additional service on this line for whatever reason we can think of.  Please change to Yellow Brick Road Line and ask the Wizard to get you the fuck out of west suburban London."

Just kidding.  But we did have to go four more stops west before we could finally catch a train back to town.  Which we did until...yep, we had to change lines again to a station that got us about two miles from Westminster station (which had no service).  Because it's Saturday, because it's the holidays, and because one train dominoed the entire system, we got a lovely tout of west London...at least the train stations of west London.  Did I say yesterday that I love mass transit?  Nah, I still do...just not today.

We finally arrive at Victoria Station.  By now it's 2pm, and we are starving.  We found a pub, The Albert, that had a good beer selection, but not so good food; however, by that time I would have eaten one of Elizabeth's shoes.

We continued our walk in the cold and then, out of nowhere: Westminster Abbey.  We got there too late today, but we'll be back.

And just beyond:

I call this one "Leaning Big Ben"

Is it just me or does he look a little like Bill Murray?

And I look like I'm cold...because I am!

And then there's the Thames...and the London Eye!

We walked across the Westminster Bridge and looked back for these shots:

The bridge was solid with tourists...Joe was lucky he got this shot with no one photobombing!  Lots of buskers and gamers and tourists.  I can't even imaging what it would be like in summer.  

Our final destination of the day was the Churchill War Rooms and museum.  This was high on Joe's priority list, but not so much for me.  I'm so glad I went, though; it was an incredible collection of memorabilia with lots of great interactive exhibits.  So very well done!  

When we got out, it was dark, and we were hungry (at least thirsty), so we headed back to Victoria station.  Fingers crossed that Central Line was back on schedule (pronounced: sh-ed-u-al)...it was.  And we made it back to Marble Arch...where we'd started out about 36 hours previous.  Walking back to our hotel, we passed The Tyburn - bar/restaurant - where we ate, and drank four pretty darn good English beers.

Tomorrow - The Tower of London, the Tower Bridge, a pint or two at Hung, Drawn & Quartered, as well as a pint or two at Dean Swifters or the Dog and Duck.  Hopefully, Central Line will get us there.

Hello London!

As usual we didn't get much sleep on the plane...food to eat, beer to drink, games to play, hot towels to refresh with, and movies to watch.  Premium economy on British Airways is much like business class on American, but with cooler accents.

We took a taxi (Black Cab) to the hotel and had a great driver - Steve - who was full of personality and information about London.  It's Boxing Day here and Steve, told us that Boxing Day has two meanings: first, that it's the day after Christmas - time to throw out all your boxes and unwrapping trash, and, second, after spending a day with your family, you've likely taken up sides and suggested that we go outside and box to settle differences.  I love that definition!

Joe and I always like to hit the ground running.  If you go straight to the hotel and try to sleep, you begin a pattern of sleeping during the day and lying awake at night.  We did get an early check in and after a bit of freshening up (teeth brushing, reapplying deodorant, hair combing), away we went to find a pub.

We started out going down Oxford Street where there are tons of department and clothing stores...also tons of people...and each one was weighted down with bags and bags of stuff.  Didn't anyone get what they wanted for Christmas?  There were so many people trying to get into one store, there was a queue waiting to get in!  After dodging the masses - and not finding any food - we turned back and walked along Hyde Park (think Central Park in NYC).  We walked.  And walked.  And walked.  And got more tired and more hungry as we went.  We got lost and had to reroute again.  Finally we came upon a pub.  Too bad it was one of the new "chains."  The beer was okay, but the food wasn't very good...just sustenance.

After lunch, we walked a bit further and came on Buckingham Palace Road...now we're talking.  We didn't get to see the changing of the guard...oh we will before the end of the trip...but the palace is beautiful.  Here's Joe in front of the gate.

The gold gilt is amazing, but so are the reliefs:

Even though the guards weren't changing, there are still guards on duty.  And I can only imagine what they're thinking, "Bloody tourists.  I don't come down to your office and stare at you!"

We'd finally had enough adventure (and enough walking for the day) so we tried our hand at the Tube to get us back to the hotel.  God I love mass transit.

Plan for tomorrow:  if it's rainy, we'll go to the museums, if it's nice, we'll hit the Eye, Big Ben and the Abbey.

Cheers!

Merry Christmas, Y'all!

We're wheels up at 5:40pm.  Looks like the winter storm is going to wait for us to take off...but we DO live in Denver, and unless it's a white-out, Denver doesn't typically delay/cancel flights.  We also have a direct flight into Heathrow, so no worries about stopping over in New York or getting caught in other weather.

The long-range forecast for London is partly cloudy and 40s/30s.  And only one day shows a significant chance for rain (but they don't know, right?!).

We arrive in London at 9:30am the 26th.  (By the way, there's a seven hour time difference between Denver and the UK.  When it's 9:30am there, it's 2:30am in Denver.)  And after dropping our bags at the hotel, we'll likely head straight to Westminster, with, perhaps, a side trip to the holiday market in Hyde Park and, of course, a pint at a pub!

And although it's Boxing Day there, it's also the day after Christmas...think of the sales!

Cheers!!

It's Hard To Pack For 16 Days

I'm hoping we'll be able to find a laundry or send stuff out at the hotel because packing winter clothes (sweaters, tights, boots, etc.) in a single suitcase for under 50 lbs (if it weighs more, you have to pay extra) is no picnic.

It kinda reminds me of wedding invitations.  You know, if you invite cousin Sue, then you have to invite cousin Bob.  If I take my favorite big brown sweater, then I have to take my brown hiking boots.  In case we go out to a nice restaurant, I should take those nice black pants I bought this summer, but then I have to take a pair of dressier (heeled) shoes.  And so it goes.

Then there's the parade of toiletries and the ziplock bags of "but I might need this just in case."  I know we can buy additional/whatever we need in London, but it's soooo expensive over there.

I also know us.  On no fewer than four of our many trips, we have actually purchased an additional bag or suitcase to fill with all of our souvenirs to bring back home.

I said it before, and I'll say it again...we're gonna need a bigger bag!

So I Had A Request for Marriott

We land at Heathrow at about 9:30 am London time.  That means, we get through customs and out of the airport, to a taxi and to the hotel about 11:30...check in isn't until 3pm.

I'm a Platinum Elite Marriott member, which gives me royal treatment whether I'm in London or in Turkey, Texas.  And prior to each stay, I get an e-mail from the robo concierge asking me if there is anything they can do for me.  So I replied that I'd like to get early check-in, if possible, or at least be able to check my bags with a bellman until we can get into the room.  Bam!  I got a response within five minutes...and it's soooo polite.

Here's the response I got (please utilize your best Hugh Grant or Emma Thompson accent):

Dear Ms. Everett,

A stay at Marriott starts before you check in. Thank you for contacting us via Virtual Concierge. This gives us the opportunity to prepare for your arrival.

In regards to your request for early check in, I have placed a note on your booking and we will try our best to accommodate your needs. Alternatively, we have storage facilities available were you could leave your luggage until the room becomes available.

Ms. Everett, please feel free to contact me at any time if there is anything else you need further assistance with.

We wish you a pleasant journey and look forward to welcome you at the London Marriott Marble Arch.

Mathias Zahn | Guest Relations Executive & Duty Manager


I know most hotels worth their salt would be equally nice and supply a response just as quickly, but I can't wait to check in at Marble Arch!

Examination Day

Not really what you're thinking.

Today's the day I work on figuring out all the little shit:  How do I upload photos from my phone or our camera to my new computer?  Does my new year's eve outfit look as good on me as it does on the hangers...do the cute black suede wedge boots look like I want them to look with the outfit?  What should I wear on the plane...will those knit pants cause me to turn up on "What Not to Wear"?  Do I have a couple of those little travel toothpastes?  Which maps and travel books should we take?  Where the hell are the AC adapters.  You know...all that stuff I don't want to get there and realize that it doesn't work or that I need something else to go with.

So, yeah, today is my examination day.  I don't know what Joe is examining.

I Love A White Christmas, But...

Growing up in Amarillo, we rarely had a white Christmas.  Rarely.  That "I'm Dreaming of a White Christmas" song was always one of my favorites, and almost always true.  In New York and Maryland, where Joe grew up, I'm sure he spent many a Christmas afternoon building snow forts, going sledding and writing his name in the snow with pee.

Now that we live in Colorado, I expect to see more of the white stuff...in fact, I get a little excited about it.  But not this time.  They (the all-knowing weatherpeople) are now calling for a new winter storm to blow in later in the week - Christmas eve and Christmas day.  And while that'd be great and all...it may interfere with our departure flight Christmas day afternoon.

I'm hoping that "they" will be wrong and the storm will come early or later.  I guess the good news is that we are in Colorado and DIA is prepared for snow.  If we were leaving from DFW I'd really be worried.

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.

The Suitcase Decision

Well, we're a week out from wheels up, and we're already stressing about what suitcases we'll take.  (I know, first world problems, right?)

We could pack jointly in one large bag.  Except it's winter, and [my] sweaters, jeans, skirts, tights, boots, two purses, walking shoes, hats, gloves, toiletries and make-up take up a lot of room.  So, two big bags it is!  Except one of our two giant bags has a broken handle.  Urrrrgggghhhh.  And now Joe needs a serviceable carry-on.  I traveled a lot in my last job, so I have a plethora of useful bags in various sizes, but all of them are too girly for Joe.  Double urrrgggghhhh.  Time to run the gauntlet of Christmas shoppers to buy something for ourselves: a large bag and a boy-friendly, wheeled carry-on.  Not really what I wanted to spend money on right now, but the broken-handle bag was one we've had for over 18 years.  I guess we got our money's worth out of it.

Those of you who know me, know that I am a fanatical list maker and, of course, have already started my packing list for this trip - as witnessed in the previous paragraph.  But this is going to be a pretty long trip with not much hope for a laundromat, so I/we need to be particularly mindful as we pack.  The other night while waiting for sleep to come, I ticked off about eight outfits...I'm halfway there!

If you know me, you also know this: I am a shopper and will need to prepare for the inevitable additions to the suitcases for the trip home.  It might be tough to fit in several of those big warm fisherman sweaters, a couple of kilts, one of those beef-eater costumes, and a half-dozen bottles of scotch!

We're gonna need a bigger bag.

Off On Another Adventure

So, husband Joe turns 50 on Christmas Eve (please don't tell him...he'll only deny it), and I asked him earlier this year what, exactly, would he like to do to mark the occasion.  He was not so much concerned about what he'd be doing on that particular day, but more about how he might stretch out the celebration and what fun he could be having through Christmas and, sure, why not New Year's.

He pondered a bit, and then posed the possibility of a trip somewhere.

Well, if you know anything about us, you know that we simply don't just plan a trip; we plan an adventure.  And London, York, and Edinburgh won the coin toss.

We leave on Christmas night and begin what I can only assume will be a two week pub crawl through England and Scotland.  I'm sure we'll visit the "must do" attractions (I have GOT to see the crown jewels and the Globe Theatre), but I'm also certain we'll spend a couple of afternoons cozied up to a warm pub fire having a pint or two.

Follow along - and if you have any suggestions, we'll absolutely take them under advisement!
Happy Holidays everyone!